Saturday, August 11, 2012

Étoile

Location: Yountville, CA (Napa Valley)
Cuisine type: classic (French) haute cuisine
Atmosphere: elegant high-end restaurant
Meal: dinner
Overall score: 9.4


Nina

As my birthday treat, we went to Etoile, the Domaine Chandon estate restaurant, and my first real Michelin starred experience (one star). Wanting to fully enjoy the experience, I decided ahead of time I would go for a prix-fixe menu with a wine pairing, and I decided on the four course dinner menu. I passed on that evening’s “Chef’s Menu” because some of the course proposed on that menu were not as exciting to me as some of the options among the four course offerings.


Our dinner was preceded by a complimentary rose champagne toast and chef’s amuse bouche as a perk of being wine club members at Chandon. While I already knew that I would enjoy the rose (I’ve had it a couple of times before), the amuse bouche blew me away and was a great way to start a meal. We were presented with a simple but elegant ceramic spoon with a smooth and light vegetable panna cotta on the bottom (I think it was corn, but I don’t recall). On top, there was some smoked salmon tossed with mild spices, a small sphere of what might have been cucumber juice (light, refreshing, and which melted in my mouth), and garnished with a single crunchy sprout. It was one perfect bite, with the flavors melding harmoniously in my mouth, and accomplishing the precise goal of this course - enticing the palate and raising excitement for the meal to come.


As we were waiting for our first course, we were presented with a duo of butters, a cow milk butter with coarse sea salt sprinkled on top, and a goat butter with an herb infused olive oil drizzled on top - needless to say, they were both addictive. A server would pass by every now and then and offer us a fresh portion of bread - I went for the olive loaf every time (imagine a beautiful crusty sourdough, with meaty and tart olives baked right into it), but the other two options were a multigrain and a french baguette style bread.

My first course was the lamb tenderloin carpaccio, served with small mounds of fresh minty tabbouleh, yogurt spheres, a dash of lime, and one thin slice of green tomato to top it off. The meat was more tender than I could have imagined, literally dissolved in my mouth, and the bright notes of the mint and lime countered the richness of the meat to create a perfect balance. The yogurt presentation was my first experience with molecular gastronomy. It was hard to believe that the tart and light yogurt could stay on the plate as the neat little spheres that the chef placed sprinkled across the plate in small clusters, but as soon as I picked them up they would fall apart in my mouth and meld beautifully with all the other flavors on the plate. This appetizer was paired with a light and crisp sancerre wine from the Loire Valley (Thomas & Fils “La Crele” Sancerre, Loire Valley, 2010), and it was quite pleased with how nicely the white wine complemented the lamb, even though it was not along the often used (and abused) white meat/white meat, red wine/red meat paradigm.


The fish dish was much more substantial, but equally beautiful and enticing. Two thick slices of flavorful heirloom tomatoes served as the presentation platform for a beautiful, creamy and perfectly cooked piece of salmon. The fish was pan roasted (though it was so incredibly tender I still have a hard time believing it wasn’t slowly poached), and served alongside a tart and smooth escabeche dressing and a frisee salad with radish and green beans. I can say with certainty that I have never had such a smooth piece of fish, literally melting in my mouth with every bite, and striking a perfect balance with the acidic sauce and bring and rich fresh tomatoes. The pairing was an aged Napa Chardonnay (Newton “Unfiltered” Chardonnay, Napa County, 2009), which had mild citrus notes to serve as counterpoints to the fish, but also enough smooth butteriness to go along with the texture of the meat.


My main entree consisted of medium cooked slices of veal tenderloin, served alongside roasted lobster tail. The meat came on a bed of mild and braised endives, alongside sauteed leeks and chanterelle mushrooms and a sweetbreads roulade. Upon presenting me with the dish, the server poured a rich and thick lobster sauce on my plate, which really brought together the sea and land components of the dish. As garnish, there were thin shavings of pickled ginger and creamy dijon mustard and seeds, all of which provided a bright acidic balance against the richness of the sauce and meat. This course was rounded off by a rich, almost chewy Cote de Rhone aged red wine (La Font du Vent, “Les Promesses” Cote du Rhone, 2009).


Dessert is, of course, my favorite course of any meal, not only in Michelin praised establishments, which made the decision on this course the hardest of them all. I finally settled on what I considered somewhat of a safe choice - the chocolate option. It was a chocolate marquise (thick mousse), topped with white chocolate ganache and served with house made cocoa rice crispies (yes, you read that right), and topped with a rich vanilla torrone ice cream. The plate was adorned with a reduced cherry compote (and a very artistic brush stroke with the cherry sauce), and garnished with very delicious chocolate covered espresso beans. This dessert was delicious, don’t get me wrong, but it was the first time (that I can remember) that the chocolate dessert was not my favorite. I can’t really put my finger on why that is, but the richness of the chocolate, combined with the amazingly rich and delicious vanilla ice cream and the thick and sweet cherry reduction felt like it was missing something. I actually preferred Ben’s dessert, which was a much more balanced dish, with a light vanilla cream infused with pear notes. The other small glitch on dessert was that the server left me with the impression that my four course dinner would come paired with four wines - as such, I was excited about the port listed as the pairing for my marquise. However, when the dessert came out I still had no wine, and the server I first asked said he would inquire and never returned. Finally, our server stopped by and apologized for the confusion, explained that wine pairing does not continue into the dessert course, but ultimately brought me a complimentary glass of dessert wine to compensate for the misunderstanding.


I finished the meal with a small but fragrant cup of espresso, that I topped with a teaspoon of milk foam. It was a great palate cleanser and a refreshing end to a long and delightful meal. I truly enjoyed every moment of this meal, and appreciated their careful attention to detail as well as the chef’s art of pairing flavors and textures in harmonious and inventive dishes. I would wholeheartedly declare this experience a success and am looking forward to trying out other restaurants of this caliber in the future (as well as returning to this one, of course).

Food 10
Drinks 10
Atmosphere10
Service 9
Value 9



Ben

For Nina’s birthday, we had our first real meal at Michelin star rated restaurant (though we had previously stopped in for hors d'oeuvres at Bouchon), Etoile restaurant located in the Domaine Chandon winery in Napa Valley. We went with the prix fixe menu and ordered different dishes for each of the four courses to try a larger variety. We were started out with a toast - a bubbly sweet aperitif - and an “amuze bouche,” a delightful single bite spoon with smoked salmon as the star. Three types of fresh-baked breads were passed around, for tasting with three types of butter (including an incredible goat milk butter).

While we each tried all 8 dishes, I will focus on the four that I ordered. For the first course I had an oxtail aspic. This was the 3rd time in my life I’ve had oxtail, and definitely sets a new bar. The oxtail was blended into an almost molasses/bbq tasting jello, with bits of oxtail embedded. The dish itself was probably the prettiest dish I have ever been served at a restaurant. Along with the hemisphere of oxtail aspic, there was a diced stack of wild mushrooms, neatly halved snap peas in the pod, with a delicious sweet white corn sauce poured at the table, baby white corns and slices of white truffle. This was definitely a fantastic first dish, and our first courses set the stage - and standard - for the rest of the dishes.


The next dish I chose was similar in appearance to the first: 2 large scallops with a ring of mussels with a compressed squash topping, and a watercress sauce poured at the table. The mussels were a perfectly seared, buttery texture that went very well with the rich, herby sauce. The mussels and squash were a great pair as well, and the dish again demonstrated a great attention to detail and aesthetic.


The next dish was my favorite of the night: rabbit leg and tenderloin, each topped with a cherry sauce, a pistachio sauce, fennel and lavender flowers, and topped with bing cherries. The whole mixture was creative and simply fantastic. I finished off the night with a fantastic pear “mille-feuille” (“thousand sheets”), alternating puff-pastry and cream layers with caramelized pears. Like the others, this dish was clearly very carefully prepared and presented.


My overall impression was that there is a high effort and attention to detail, which was likely a large factor in Etoile earning their first Michelin star, and they appear determined to maintain or progress to another star. As expected, the price can get pretty high ($90 for the menu, $65 for wine pairing). For the attention to detail and the restaurant renown, the menu price is not bad at all. However, I might recommend against the wine pairings as they only provide them for the first three courses, so you come out around $22 per 4-5 oz glass. Optimally, a table of 6-8 could split the three bottles of the paired wines likely pay much less even with markup. Aside from that, the wine selection is top-notch and naturally features many of the award winning champagne-style wines of Domaine Chandon. The service was very friendly and patient, and the setting in the beautiful gardens of the winery is very pleasant. Overall, Etoile was quite an enjoyable and memorable experience.

Food 10
Drinks 9
Atmosphere9
Service 9
Value 8

Thursday, August 9, 2012

Fiesta Del Mar

Location: Mountain View
Cuisine type: traditional Mexican
Atmosphere: casual, lively
Meal: dinner
Overall score: 8


Nina

I got two dinner treats for my birthday - one on the day of, and a trip to Napa the following weekend. On the actual day we were in a bit of a rush to make it to a show, so we wanted to find somewhere with nicer food, but with a somewhat casual atmosphere and relatively fast service. Fiesta del Mar fit the description and was close enough to work that it was easy to get to. Even though we got there during the earlier part of the dinner shift, they were already quite busy and building a line of larger groups at the door. Fortunately, they had one more 2-person table available so we were seated right away.


We got a trio of salsas with fresh fried chips, and ordered a pair of margaritas that came quickly and were delicious, balanced and cold. The appetizer we shared was a chile relleno, roasted, peeled then poached in a spicy salsa and filled with a creamy cheese mixture. The waiter lured us to upgrade to the seafood filling; it was tasty but I would not necessarily consider it an enhancement to the original dish, which was creamy and delicious.


My entree was a chicken enjococado, designated as "Great Grandma's Special" on their menu. It was a pair of breast pieces drenched in an orange colored sour cream based sauce, made with roasted guajillo chiles and herbs. It was rich and filling, the meat moist and tender. The flavor was predominantly sour cream, with mild spice notes and definitely reminiscent of chicken tikka masala in style.


Since it was my birthday, i went ahead and ordered dessert even though the meal so far had been quite rich and the portions generous. I went for the flan, since it’s something I always enjoy and often crave. The presentation was beautiful, with a perfectly shaped truncated cone of flan plated in a pool of runny caramel sauce and drizzled with strawberry syrup. The flavor was good, with a hint of nutmeg that really elevated the dish. However, the flan was a little too dense for my taste, and the texture was a little stickier than I would have liked. I suspect this was probably from the use of condensed milk, which I’ve seen in Mexican recipes for flan, but I have to admit I prefer mine with whole milk or cream.
Overall, it was a wonderful birthday dinner, with delicious food, friendly service and lively atmosphere. And as an added bonus, we made the show just before tickets sold out, so it was a perfect night end to end.

Food 8
Drinks 8
Atmosphere8
Service 8
Value 8


Ben

A very popular mid-level Mexican restaurant in Mountain View, this place is packed around dinner time. Three fresh salsas are served on the table, with some housemade chips (tasty, but little thick/heavy for me). The appetizer (chile poblano stuffed with shrimp / cream cheese) was pretty good, though a little heavy on tomato. I really loved the Mole Poblano Burrito I had; the mole was great - a deep, smoky pepper flavor - and was an overall fantastic combination with the chicken and pepper. I love - but don’t eat a lot of - mexican food, and this place is definitely a little bit of a step above the generic spicy burrito I tend to eat.


The dishes are a little more complex, the ingredients are generally quality and fresh. The salsa is decent but not particularly memorable, the margarita was pretty good, not too sweet. The prices are about double the run-of-the-mill mexican places, some dishes are worth it, many probably not. My experience was overall very positive, though I was not blown away (to be fair, my expectations may have been raised from the generally rave reviews I had heard / read previously).

Food 9
Drinks 8
Atmosphere8
Service 8
Value 6

Monday, August 6, 2012

Pasta Market

Location: San Jose, CA
Cuisine type: Italian, mostly pasta dishes
Atmosphere: casual, order at the counter with table service
Meal: dinner
Overall score: 7.67


Nina

When I first laid my eyes on this place, I assumed it was a store that sold homemade pasta for cooking at home. Turns out that wasn't the case, they actually have a small, but not tiny dining area with pasta-themed decor (paintings) and simple wooden tables and benches. There is table service, but ordering is at the counter, which makes it feel casual but not quite fast food.
I ordered what seems to call to me every time on an Italian menu - veal medallions (scallopini) with mushroom Marsala sauce (the combination of cream and mushrooms must be it, though veal is a plus too).


But first things first. They brought us a basket of bread sticks without having ordered them. I have to admit I was surprised, since I didn't expect the free bread and dip treatment from a place where you order at the counter. The bread was nice, a focaccia style loaf broken up in thick strips, served with a tangy, slightly spicy cheese sauce. The sauce was a little too thick to count as a dip, and it felt strange to treat cheddar as butter; aside from that, it tasted a little too much like something that came out of the box than the homemade treat it was meant to be, I suspect due to the quality of the cheese.
Along with my entree I ordered a clam chowder. That's a treat I've come to enjoy greatly since moving to the bay area, so I was looking forward to it. The soup was a little disappointing, too many chunks of celery and too little of clams, not quite creamy enough but not exactly light either. I'll probably save ordering the chowder for places that are closer to the ocean or focus on seafood a little more in their menu.


Last but not least, came my entree. The plate was quite large, and it was separated in three distinct sections, which looked more homey than professional. On one end I had the steamed vegetables, which were quite plain but well done (not overcooked) and reasonably well seasoned. On the other end of the plate I had some pasta, which was delicious and perfect al dente, though not dressed with anything and just a little too wet. In the middle was the most prized component - the actual scallopini. the veal was tender and cooked just right, the sauce was creamy and mushroomy, and the mushrooms were well integrated, though nothing out of the ordinary (plain sliced button mushrooms).
I was happy to see that they not only offered carryout service of their full menu, but they sold individual components for the home cook - fresh pasta, various sauces, and Italian seasoning mixes (parmesan with herbs etc). The prices were reasonable and the service was great, and while I am not sure I would come back to eat in their dining room - I am looking forward to picking up some fresh pasta and a possibly even some sauce and pairing it with veggies (and maybe meat) of my choice at home and tweak it to my taste.

Food 7
Drinks 7
Atmosphere7
Service 8
Value 8



Ben

I had a great first impression of the Pasta Market, and the food lived up to expectation. It is a place where one orders at the counter, but with plentiful seating. They offer raw noodles, pastas to go, and a variety classic italian entrees. The prices are a little high for what looks like a to-go market, but the food generally lived up it. The minestrone I had was decent, but the pasta bolognese (with a rich tomato sauce and sausage) was fantastic. As was the fresh bread on the table served with the meal served with a chili cream cheese. They offered a variety of wines, and we got a small half carafe of some table (red) wine that was a great complement for the food (and pretty cheap at ~$6).


I would say all of us really enjoyed the food. It has the quality (and price) of a decent italian restaurant, but the feel of a small market despite the large amount of seating. Without the “wow”- or romantic - factor of a more formal italian restaurant, they have a strong design and execution of classic italian dishes.

Food 9
Drinks 8
Atmosphere7
Service 8
Value 7