Monday, November 8, 2021

Apple Rum Fall Gateau St Honore

Fall is for apple cider and pumpkins and warm spices. So when I set out to make my own interpretation of the classic Gateau St Honore, I decided to go with a seasonal approach and turn it into a celebration of apples.

This is another project post, just as much to document for my own reference what I did to bring together this cake as it is to guide others to make their own. I love to mix and match components and flavors and this cake is a prime example of a long list of ingredients and a palette of flavors harmonizing into a truly satisfying and delightful treat. 

First up is the puff pastry base. You can simply use store bough pastry for guaranteed flakey and crisp results, of course. I reached out for my trusty copy of Dessert Person by Claire Saffitz and made her rough puff, check out this video for a detailed instructional from her on how to do it. 

Next prep item, pastry cream. Again, I used the recipe from the fundamentals section of Dessert person, which I infused with cloves and cinnamon whole spices, sweetened in part with maple syrup, and flavored with a splash of rum. If you don't have the book (why not? I ask), this is a great recipe I've often used as well. After the cream cools (with a cover touching the surface so it doesn't form a film), split it in two and lighten up one half with Italian or Swiss meringue to obtain what is called creme chiboust. Set both in the fridge until ready to use.

I made a batch of salted caramel and let it cool - a flakey salt and deep amber color do wonders in cutting the sweetness and giving more dimension to the caramel. Head over to Sally's blog for an excellent recipe.

Final make-ahead component is the creme chantily that I've fallen in love with recently - a fluffy and not-to-sweet mix of butter, cream cheese and mascarpone cream, this works on just about any cake but is lovely with fresh fruit and spiked desserts. Head over to Sugar Geek's awesome blog for the recipe.

When it's time to bake and bring it all together, roll out the rough puff to a thin sheet, and cut out a circle that will be the base of the St Honore. Then, make the choux - that's the cream puffs around the edges, and a ring around the base. I made a craquelin as well for the puffs (my main reference recipe for craquelin is this one), in which I added some cinnamon to tie in with the fall flavors of the dessert as a whole. In addition to the puffs themselves, pipe a ring of choux dough directly on the rough puff circle as well. Bake together until golden, raised and set then poke the choux to let out steam as it cools. 

Fill the puffs with caramel and creme chiboust, and set aside for final assembly. Claire's croquembouche instructional covers a lot of the steps for these puffs from dough, to filling and assembly with caramel.

Time for a quick product plug (no, they're definitely not paying me) - the apple cider spread from Trader Joe's. They're always at the peak of their game for seasonal products, and this is no exception. Tastes like apple pie met apple cider and partied their way into a jam jar. It packs a fantastic amount of flavor, and the apple pieces are small enough to provide texture but work as a spread.

To prep the fresh apples (I got fresh harvest gala apples, they were aromatic and crisp, perfect to enjoy fresh). I sliced them thinly on a handheld mandolin, then softened them slightly in lemon juice, warm water and maple syrup with a dash of calvados. This also prevents oxidation.

Final assembly goes as follows:

- inject caramel in the choux on the base, as well as the puffs turned upside down ready for filling. 

- pipe reserved pastry cream over the base, smooth into a thin layer

- add apple cider spread across the base in a thin layer, then smooth as well

- dip filled puffs in hot caramel (carefully!) and attach using the caramel along the base in a ring (I followed Prue's directions for caramel here)

- fill space between the puffs halfway up with creme chantilly

- arrange apple slices in a swirl pattern, leaving room for another puff in the center if desired

That's it, you've got yourself a beautiful and delicious Gateaux St Honore!

Notes

  • Make this your own! I recommend picking a dominant flavor/theme (in my case, apple), think of a couple of spices that complement it well (maple, cinnamon, cloves here) and consider what forms that component can take to provide some textural variation (fresh apples and cider spread)
  • Be very careful with the hot caramel! I got a couple of burns from unexpected drips, the temperature is quite high when the sugar is liquid. Consider you may have to gently rewarm the sugar while you work on assembly if it thickens too much.

Monday, September 6, 2021

Plum and rum cake

This year I discovered for the first time the extent of available plum varietals and hybrids in my area and decided to enjoy them to their fullest. I brought together the freshest, most ripe fruit I could get my hands on, with delicious rum and vanilla to layer into this fun and complex cake that was my birthday present to myself.


Most of the components are recipes I brought together from a variety of sources, which I will share here. Later on, I share my quick and easy fruit "jam" recipe which I've used for added plum flavor in this cake and I've also used as base for fruit mousse and souffles in the past. 

Going in the order of the components bottom to top (following the layering in assembling this cake), first thing going in was a brown butter hazelnut sablé - I started with this recipe from Bon Appetit, and used hazelnuts instead of pistachios, cut it in a 6" circle to match the cake size, and omitted the glaze. The scraps were delicious to nibble on, they didn't last long at all.

I then spread a thin layer of pluot quick jam to act as pop of flavor/binder between the crisp base and the cake layer, and added the first cake round. I made the cake using this recipe from Once Upon a Chef, but arranged the plums in neat 6" circles so they would match the cutout for the cake layers.

The cake round got doused in vanilla bean rum simple syrup, followed by a thin layer of vanilla rum German buttercream - essentially Liv for Cake's recipe, with a touch of rum and nutmeg in the custard.

Next, I used another recipe that caught my eye, Sohla's upside down mochi cake adapted with peacotums and vanilla bean. This came out rich and earthy and delicious, but learn from my mistakes - only include this if you are planning to serve the cake the same day. The fridge is not kind on the texture of mochi cake, as delightful as it is fresh out of the oven or saved for a little while at room temperature.

Cake got another round of butter cake, rum syrup and custard buttercream layers, before the delicate and creamy vanilla rum cheesecake - I simply made Matt's recipe directly in a parchment lined ring form pan without any crust, then carefully stacked it on the cake after it was thoroughly chilled.

After topping the cheesecake with a layer of the pluot quick jam, I made German Buttercream swirls and poked them with droppers of vanilla bean rum. Simple and elegant, with a bonus infusion of the aromatic rum for each slice.


Plum quick jam



Ingredients

  • 2 cups of plums, pitted and roughly chopped
  • 2-4 tbsp sugar, to taste
  • half of a whole cinnamon stick
  • pinch of salt
  • 1 tbsp corn starch

Method

  1. Put plums, sugar, cinnamon (or other whole spices, to taste) and pinch of salt in a pot with a splash of water and bring to a simmer. 
  2. Cook for a couple of minutes until fruit is softened, then remove from heat and blend until smooth with an immersion blender.
  3. Add corn starch slurry (corn starch mixed with 1 tbsp water until smooth), whisk well and return to heat.
  4. Cook until bubbling for ~1 min and thickened.
  5. Remove from heat, let cool, then chill or use right away.

Notes

  • You can do this with nearly any fruit to use as a quick jam for layering in a cake or for a base for fruit mousse or souffle. 
  • Stone fruit pair nicely with warm spices (cinnamon, cardamom, cloves) as well as vanilla bean. Berries may pair well with herbs or floral flavors (rose, orange blossom).

Monday, August 2, 2021

Peach pecan entremet

Some of my favorite projects are ones where creativity meets technique, and in which I can explore how a flavor pairing can work together in different ways. This peach entremet checks all of these boxes, which is why I wanted to share some of my process and the recipe for each component.


This year I've really focused on using the freshest and most in season fruit in my baking. Sourced locally, I can not only get them at the peak of ripeness and flavor, but I get the opportunity to visit farms and pick my own, such fun for me and the kids as well! First came strawberries, then cherries, and then it was apricot and peach season. I got a large box of fresh local peaches and got to work, after playing with them in a few different ways this is the creation that emerged.

These are Goldensweet peaches from Frog Hollow farms, they are sweet and juicy freestone peaches, though firm enough to slice neatly. First, I picked out a few of them, halved them and baked them in the oven until the peel pulled off easily, they were soft throughout (but not mushy) and the juices caramelized slightly on the edges - I then pureed them and put the puree in an airtight container in the fridge to use a bit later. 


A few more of the peaches got chopped up (bowl in that first pic above) and I turned them into a fun and quick compote - a small dash of brown sugar just to draw out the juices because the fruit were sweet enough on their own, a splash of bourbon, some cinnamon and a little cornstarch to thicken. I cooked this all together until softened and slightly thickened, then spooned into hemispherical moulds and put in the freezer to set. 


For the next component I don't have any good pictures, I do need to plan my recipe development a bit more carefully that's for sure. I made a simple gelee with sparkling rose wine, peach puree, brown sugar and gelatin, and let it set on a quarter sheet pan covered in clingwrap. Note to self, lightly oiled foil may work better here, but it was workable. I let this set in the fridge while I whipped up a basic cremeux, then flavored it with a hearty dose of toasted pecan butter. Pecans made another showing in the cake base - a classic joconde sponge, only made with pecan flour.

Last but not least, the piece de resistance, the peach mousse to bring it all together. I used the oven roasted peach puree, gelatin and whipped cream to make a smooth and airy mousse in which I layered all the other components. I made a trial personal sized entremet (3") first to get a taste and decide, and I really do love how well peaches and pecans come together in all this.


For the finishing touch, I wanted to make a mirror glaze, but didn't want to stick with the classic white chocolate one as it felt like it would be too sweet for the subtle flavors of the entremet. Instead, I made a salted caramel mirror glaze with a touch of peach puree and poured it on the warmer side for a thin finish.

Last but not least, I wanted to talk about the theme I centered this dessert around. The larger sharing size entremet was assembled in a 6" hemispherical pan. I actually included the cremeux both underneath the compote as in the mini, and immediately on top of the sponge, with the rose gelee and a layer of mousse in between. I wanted to set up this gelatin based dessert as a jelly-fish, so I made tentacles out of gelatin, use cake scraps and chocolate candies as the bottom of the sea in a vase, and set up a blue backdrop. Not my tidiest work, but pretty fun, what do you think?


Sometimes less is more, even though I spent an eternity adding golden dragees on the bottom of the entremet for an extra touch, I ended up liking it all more without, but presented here is the most dressy version of this jellyfish before I got enjoyed at the table.


I partnered with a friend with experience in mixology, and she came up with two cocktails that paired with this dessert. The first one, refreshing and light, a little tart - puréed peach, peach bitters, rye, creme de peche, angostura bitters, lemon, and tarragon syrup. The second one, recommended to be served with dessert itself, was a strong drink, simple and sophisticated - rye, Lillet rouge, peach bitters, tarragon syrup, red vermouth. Cheers!




Peach pecan entremet


~ Peach compote ~

Ingredients

  • 2 peaches, chopped in even pieces
  • 1 tbsp brown sugar
  • 2 tbsp bourbon
  • 1 tbsp corn starch
  • 1 tsp cinnamon
  • 1 pinch of salt

Method

  1. Mix peaches and brown sugar in a small pot, let sit for a few minutes to draw out juices.
  2. Put pot on medium heat, stir occasionally as you bring it to a simmer.
  3. Add cinnamon and salt, mix.
  4. Add bourbon (off the heat to avoid flame-up), then cook for a couple of minutes.
  5. Make slurry with corn starch, add and stir for 1-2 minutes until thickened.
  6. Let cool slightly, then chill in the fridge or put in forms in the freezer for entremet layering.

~ Bubbly gelee ~

For ratios and method, I referenced this recipe, only used 1.5 cups Chandon reserve rose for the bubbly, only 2 tbsp of sugar and 2 tbsp of peach puree along with the 3 tbsp of powdered gelatin.

~ Pecan cremeux ~

Ingredients

  • 4 egg yolks
  • 40 g granulated sugar
  • 200 ml milk
  • 200 ml heavy cream
  • 160 g white chocolate, chopped
  • 2 tbsp pecan butter

Method

  1. Beat together yolks and sugar until pale and increased in volume slightly.
  2. Combine milk and cream in a pot and bring to a bare simmer.
  3. Temper the yolks carefully, pouring in the hot milk a bit at a time while whisking.
  4. Return to heat set to medium-low and stir occasionally until thickened (back of spoon test or 180F).
  5. Let cool slightly, then add chopped white chocolate and leave for a minute or two until it melts throughout.
  6. Incorporate melted chocolate well, use stick blender if needed.
  7. Add pecan butter and mix.
  8. Transfer to piping bag, secure the end with an elastic and place in fridge until needed.

~ Pecan joconde ~

Ingredients

  • 185 g pecans or pecan flour
  • 185 g powdered sugar
  • 5 eggs, separated yolks
  • 50 g all purpose flour
  • 25 g granulated sugar
  • 45 g butter, melted

Method

  1. Preheat oven at 350F. Prepare a half sheet pan with parchment paper.
  2. If using whole pecans, grind up until fine in a food processor.
  3. Beat together powdered sugar, egg yolks and ground pecans in stand mixer until light and fluffy.
  4. Add flour and mix until just combined.
  5. In a separate bowl, whisk egg whites to soft peaks.
  6. Gradually add granulated sugar while whisking on high speed until fully incorporated and the meringue has achieved stiff peaks.
  7. Carefully fold meringue in pecan mixture, trying to keep as much air into the meringue as possible.
  8. Drizzle in the melted butter while folding until incorporated.
  9. Gently pour batter in prepared pan and level using a large offset spatula.
  10. Bake 8-10 minutes or until toothpick comes out clean close to the center of the pan.
  11. Invert on cooling rack, remove parchment and let cool.

~ Peach mousse ~

Ingredients

  • 150 g granulated sugar
  • 3 egg whites
  • 1 cup peach puree
  • 4 sheets of gelatin, soaked in cold water (or 4 tsp gelatin powder)
  • 1.5 cups heavy cream

Method

  1. First, make an Italian meringue: start by heating up sugar with a splash of water until melted.
  2. Put egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer.
  3. When the temperature of the syrup reaches 240F, turn on the stand mixer on medium.
  4. When the syrup reaches 250F, remove from heat. Make sure the egg whites are already frothy, and start pouring the syrup down the side of the bowl while mixer is still going.
  5. Continue to whisk on high until meringue is glossy and it holds stiff peaks.
  6. Warm up peach puree slightly in the microwave or in a small pot and add gelatin to melt.
  7. Let puree cool slightly, but not set (80-85F), then carefully fold into Italian meringue.
  8. Whip the heavy cream until light but still a bit runny, just below soft peak stage.
  9. Fold cream into peach mousse and use immediately before it starts setting.

~ Caramel mirror glaze ~

I followed this tried and true recipe for the mirror glaze, blooming the gelatin in half water, half peach puree to tie in the flavors.

Assembly

I'm including the instructions for a straightforward, ring mould cake, the hemispherical cake or a silicone form require assembly upside down.
  • Line ring mould with acetate or cling wrap to prevent sticking.
  • Cut a circle of joconde to fit the ring mould, then place at the bottom of the prepared ring.
  • Pipe a disc of cremeux on the joconde, leaving 0.5"-1" of space to the edges.
  • Cut a disc of gelee the same width as the cremeux and place on top.
  • Pipe or spoon peach mousse to cover the cremeux and gelee, making sure it fills all the spaces around the edges of the ring.
  • Place frozen peach compote in the middle, then spoon/pipe more peach mousse until the compote is well covered by at least 0.5"-1" of mousse.
  • Set in the freezer a couple of hours or overnight to set well.
  • Bring mirror glaze to desired temperature for pouring (85F or just slightly warmer).
  • Unmould cake, place on top of a rack or stable cup/ramekin smaller than the cake placed inside a baking pan to catch the excess glaze.
  • Carefully but swiftly pour mirror glaze on top, making sure the sides are well covered. Alternately, you can pour the mirror glaze before unmoulding for a naked sides look.
  • Let cake thaw at room temperature for an hour or in the fridge for a few hours, serve chilled.

Sunday, May 30, 2021

Savory muffins egg surprise


You can call it a savory muffin, you can call it a vegetarian scotch egg, or even portable breakfast, but these easy to make treats are as delicious as they are pretty. Read on for the recipe on how to make them and what variations I've tried so far.



Jump to recipe

One of my favorite things about this recipe is that it comes together quickly, in only one bowl. I grate the zucchini on the coarse side of the box grater so it doesn't turn to mush, then squeeze it thoroughly. The carrot goes on the fine side and doesn't need squeezing out quite as much - I used white carrot in this batch as you can see below:


The recipe makes 12 regular muffins, or 8 egg surprise muffins (portable breakfast). I like it make it half and half, that way everyone can get their favorite version - 4 egg filled and 6 regular muffins.


The nutritional yeast gives the batter a cheesy flavor, you can sub in 1/4 cup of finely grated cheese instead if you prefer. I do love the cheese sprinkled on top for both flavor and texture.

More detail coming soon :) 


Savory muffins (egg surprise)



Ingredients

  • 2 eggs
  • 2/3 cup unsweetened applesauce
  • 1/3 cup coconut milk
  • 1 tbsp nutritional yeast
  • 2 tsp baking powder
  • 1 tsp baking soda
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 3/4 cup finely grated carrots
  • 3/4 cup coarsely grated zucchini, squeezed
  • 1 cup quick oats
  • 1 cup whole wheat flour
  • handful of grated cheese
  • Optional: 4 or 8 eggs, see notes

Method

  1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F and line a muffin pan with paper liners or parchment.
  2. If you want to make the scotch egg/egg surprise version, boil the eggs until whites are set and middle is very creamy, see notes. Cool completely.
  3. In a large mixing bowl, add eggs and whisk for 15 seconds. Add applesauce, coconut milk, nutritional yeast, baking powder, baking soda, salt and whisk well to combine.
  4. Add carrots and zucchini and stir a few times.
  5. Add oats and whole wheat flour; gently mix until combined. Do not over mix.
  6. For plain muffins, distribute batter evenly among 12 cupcake liners. For egg surprise muffins, scoop a spoonful of batter into each of 8 liners. Place egg on top, press slightly, then spoon enough batter on top to just cover the egg on all sides. I like to make half and half (4 egg muffins, 6 plain from one batch.
  7. Sprinkle cheese on top, to taste. A sharp cheese like cheddar, fontina or parmesan works well.
  8. Bake in the preheated oven 24-26 minutes until golden and set. Add 3-5 min if you prefer your egg yolk to be cooked through
  9. Enjoy warm, or cover and store in fridge, then reheat slightly before serving.

Notes

  • To cook the eggs for including in the recipe, follow these simple steps: bring water to a boil. Gently lower the eggs in the water, and set a 5'30" timer. When timer is up, immediately cool eggs in either running cold water or a bowl of ice water. Let cool then peel carefully as they're very soft inside.
  • I love a runny yolk, but it's best served warm from the oven. To keep a runny yolk, chill the eggs in the fridge before peeling and encasing in the muffin batter to bake. For a semi-set yolk, cool to room temperature after boiling and use directly. For a well cooked egg, leave in the oven a few exta minutes.
  • You can use whole milk and/or regular all purpose flour in the recipe.
  • Cheese is optional, but adds a delicious flavor and great melty crust on top. It also tends to prevent the muffin batter from splitting over the egg, which causes uneven cooking